The location has changed through the years, but Wade’s Cafe has been part of the dining scene since the early 1950s. Frankly, though, its longevity is baffling to me.
There were a few positives, including engaging service and a bright, welcoming color scheme. Nonetheless, the food didn’t quite meet expectations.
To its credit, Wade’s draws a crowd, including what appeared to be a clientele of regulars from couples to groups of men, from families to small gatherings of friends. (I suspect my comments won’t be well received.) The large menu features standard breakfast and lunch fare, which is served all day — well, at least during business hours between 6 a.m. and 2 p.m.
The first disappointment surfaced when we learned, after placing our order, that the biscuits, identified on the menu as “Wade’s Buttermilk Biscuits,” served with sausage gravy ($8.99), were not homemade. This might have been easier to overlook if the gravy had been more palatable.
It’s not a pretty dish to begin with, so everything has to taste better than it looks. The bland gravy contained only occasional bits of pork sausage and required a lot of salt and pepper to detect any flavor. Combined with the biscuits, which were dense, not light and airy, there was little incentive to eat much of what was on the plate.
The breakfast hash also sounded more promising than it was, although the hash browns earned kudos for being the perfect combination of crispy, golden brown and creamy white for a balance of tastes and textures. The spuds were topped with two well-cooked eggs and came with a choice of meats over which shredded cheddar was strewn. We selected sausage and wished we had chosen bacon, just because everything’s better with bacon.
Small pieces of chopped sausage links were sprinkled around the edges and not integrated in the hash browns. This was less of a hash and more of an entree of eggs, potatoes and sausage. From the choices of whole wheat, sourdough, multigrain and English muffins, we opted for the latter. On the table was a selection of packaged jams and jellies.
Avocado toast ($15.99) was a surprise in several ways. Large chunks of ripe avocado sat atop toasted multigrain toast with roasted cherry tomatoes and slivered almonds. The amount of avocado pieces was impressive, but even though the tomatoes added some flavor punch, they were cold. I couldn’t help wondering about the inclusion of the nuts because they slid off the toast.
The order included two eggs and hash browns. The latter was a substitute for the fresh fruit, which was supposed to be the side dish but the kitchen was out. (By the time we left I noticed small bowls of sliced strawberries accompanying entrees on other tables, so the fruit order arrived by the time we’d finished eating.) I’m glad the hash browns were as good as they were, but fruit would have been a healthier choice.
Our server was friendly and attentive, keeping coffee cups filled and checking in on us. The noise level never inhibited conversation, which is always appreciated.
Wade’s Cafe
Breakfast and lunch served all day
Location: 3504 N. Academy Blvd.
Contact: 1-719-596-8122; wades-cafe.com
Prices: $8.49 to $18.99
Hours: 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily.
Details: Credit cards accepted. Patio. Wi-Fi.
Favorite dishes: Hash browns.
Other: Gluten-free and limited vegan options available.
