I have never been what you’d call ‘outdoorsy’. Although I stay active and love the fresh air, I’d always favour a nice jaunt along the beach or a countryside ramble over a full-blown hike. I certainly do not own walking boots, a backpack or – *shudders* – a cagoule.
So when I found myself on (a section of) the 120 kilometre Camino de Levante in Spain’s Region de Murcia, I was forced to reflect on some of my life choices.
There I was, surrounded by Timberland boots and Patagonia nylons, in my gym kit and Vejas with a tote bag slung over one shoulder. If it wasn’t for the sun cream and baseball cap donated by a tour guide, I’m not sure I would have made it to the finish line without heatstroke.
My ridiculous outfit aside, the first thing that struck me about the camino as we limbered up in the early hours of the morning was how stunning the landscape is. I had been to Spain before, but mostly to cities and beaches in other regions – many now the focus of anti-tourism protests.
Before me were vivid hues of orange, green and blue, as the morning sun illuminated rows of lemon trees, olive groves and verdant hills. I hadn’t seen this side of Spain before – already, I was enthralled.
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As we passed the first checkpoint and fragrant pine trees, there was a slight chill in the air, accentuated by the shade of conifers that line the path. It was October, and although the temperature would climb to over 30 degrees at other points in the day, for now it was a cool 16 degrees.
The miles racked up and we naturally fell into smaller groups, occasionally switching walking partners after water stops and bathroom breaks (and by that, I mean hiding behind a bush and praying passersby didn’t spot us – far easier for the men to pull off).
Although I had just met these people, I found myself flitting between trivial chats about pomegranates and caterpillars to heartfelt conversations and inner monologues with ease. Even when there was silence – save for the crunch of grave and the cicadas singing in the long grass – there was no awkwardness about it. In fact, it felt strangely natural.
Before we knew it, the sun was beating down on us and fatigue began to set in. I could feel the dull pain of a blister coming on and my shin splints playing up, but I focused on putting one foot in front of the other, and the majestic scenery of the surrounding badlands.
When we eventually stopped for lunch (fresh pan con tomate), our ever-upbeat guides, Inma and José, assessed how long the rest of the trail would take us. Muttering a few words in Spanish, they turned to face us and said it’d be two more hours – tops. Their wide grins didn’t fool me, though. I knew we still had a fair whack to go before we finished, and was steeling myself for the next part of our hike.
Against all odds, I got a second wind. And while the others were happily ambling along and chatting away to José – who regularly does this route and was nonplussed by the exertion of it all – I took the lead with Inma, finding my stride at last.
Some hours later (more than two, I might add), we turned a corner and finally saw it: the ancient fortress city of Caravaca de la Cruz – our final checkpoint. Perched on the hillside in the far distance, the castle’s striking red marble looked like a flame against the cloudless, clear blue sky; the afternoon sun illuminating the rooftops and pastel-hued buildings in the most incredible way.
Laying eyes on this mirage-like sight, I was inspired once more and went full throttle. It was then that I realised I was trying to prove something – not to anyone else, but to myself. It wasn’t just a case of doing it, but doing it well.
As we eventually scaled the cobbled, hilly streets of Caravaca de la Cruz, a crowd lined up outside the decorative houses and storefronts. I’d like to say that they were there for us, cheering us on, but in reality, they were out supporting the runners who, on the same day, completed an ultra-marathon along the same section of the route.
These athletes had, of course, undergone a far more strenuous journey than we had, but I didn’t feel bad by comparison. Instead, I joined in, clapping as the incredible men and women made it past the finish line and collpased in the arms of their loved ones. There was a real sense of achievement, community and celebration in the air – a spectacular thing to witness.
It’s hard to explain, but getting your camino passport stamped at each milestone is not only incredibly satisfying, it feels oddly spiritual – even more so at that final stop, which is shrouded in legend and still bears the marks of Iberian, Roman, and Muslim rule, and was once home to the Knights Templar.
Of course, originally, that was the point of a camino. Translating to ‘The Way’, these hikes were a religious pilgrimage, allowing for a deeper connection to faith. But even for those who aren’t religious, like me, there is something special and moving about the experience. It’s about perseverance, commitment, and challenging yourself.
I may have gone into the Camino de la Cruz de Caravaca inexperienced (and, yes, dressed like I was going to a reformer pilates class), but I finished it with an immense sense of pride and accomplishment.
In fact, I might go back and do the whole Camino de Levante.
About the Camino de la Cruz de Caravaca (Camino de Levante)
The Camino de la Cruz de Caravaca, or the Camino de Levante, is an alternative pilgrimage route through Spain, spanning across the beautiful region of Murcia and leading to the holy city of Caravaca de la Cruz – the site of one of the splinters of the crucifix Jesus Christ died on.
Quieter than the famous Camino de Santiago trail, this route is no less special – in fact, every seven years, the city of Caravaca hosts the Holy Jubilee, a massive celebration that attracts thousands of travellers, pilgrims and hikers – religious or otherwise – to the region.
The Camino de Levante is some 120km in total, following the path of the River Segura from Valencia to Santiago de Compostela.
You can find details on each stage of the route here.
Things to do in Murcia
Of course, the region offers far more than just the camino – so don’t worry if you’re not into hiking.
Here’s my top seven picks:
Explore the stunning architecture of The Royal Casino of Murcia
A mixture of different architectural styles, the casino is a former members’ club which is now open to the public. Step into the Moorish hallway, complete with colourful zellige tiles and opulent wooden arches, before making your way into the lavish 19th-century ballroom, decked out in crystal chandeliers and ornate gold leaf panelling.
Wander around the Santa Clara Museum
Even if miniature figures of Jesus Christ aren’t your thing, the architecture of the Santa Clara Museum really is quite something – particularly the central courtyard, which has Moorish, Gothic and Baroque influences, and is maintained by the nuns.
Go wine tasting at La Diligente
Down by the river is this sweet little wine bar, which offers tasting sessions and showcases locally-produced wines – including those from a nearby vineyard we visited in the Valley of the Aceniche, run by the indomitable yet wildly generous Pepa. I may have bought a bottle (or two).
Get yourself a pair of new shoes
Not only did we get to witness how espadrilles are made, we were each gifted a pair of specially-designed shoes to mark our visit. While you sadly won’t be able to bag yourself a freebie, you can purchase your own pair from the Pereginas store in Caravaca city.
Discover the tradition of the ‘wine horses’
Our guide, Inma, took much delight in telling us the story of the ‘wine horses’ and showing us around the museum (“It’s my favourite place,” she exclaimed – more than once). The annual event, also known as Los Caballos del Vino, takes place between 1-3 May in Caravaca de la Cruz and dates back to 13th-century legend.
Split into various parts, the festival includes elaborately-dressed horses decked in embroidered silk garments, and a race down the UNESCO-protected hillside street.
Visit nearby Cehegín
Although this charming village is situated not far from Caravaca and Murcia city, it’s far quieter than its neighbours – and just as magical. With bursts of blue, yellow and red, its sun-drenched buildings are surrounded by pretty cobbled streets that lead to various churches and shade-dappled squares.
Eat award-winning tapas
While in Cehegín, El Casino de Felymar is a must. Winner of the 2024 Tapa del Año awards, this tapas restaurant not only offers punchy regional flavours, but has a gorgeous vista overlooking the Iglesia Mayor De Santa María Magdalena church.
Other standouts include La Almazara (for paella), El Horno (for tacos) and El Pulpito (try the grilled artichoke and prawns).
How to get to Murcia and where to stay
We flew direct from London Stansted to the Region de Murcia, but you can also fly from London Gatwick, Manchester Airport and Bristol Airport. Murcia city is also relatively close to Alicante, should you wish to fly into another location – or do the whole Camino de Levante.
The flight from the UK to Region de Murcia takes around 2 hours and 44 minutes, and costs range from £50-200, depending on the season and airline.
We initially stayed at the Cetina Hotel in Murcia city, which offered clean and spacious rooms, and a nice continental breakfast. We then moved to Hotel La Vera Cruz, a beautiful and calming family-run business at the heart of the historic centre, whose husband-and-wife hosts exude hospitality.
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